Located in the Southwest of Kenya the 1,510 square km Masai Mara National Reserve is home to an abundance of game including the seasonal wildebeest migration. The migration is the greatest wildlife spectacle on earth, when over a million wildebeest cross plains, valleys, and rivers in search of fresh pasture.

A Masai Mara safari is sure to ensure visitors with incredible game viewing all year round. Every day we went out into the park we saw something incredible. I was amazed watching hyena pups sniff our car tires, elephants rub against our tent poles in the night, and a pride of lions kill and devour a zebra.

Despite being one of the most popular spots to go on safari in Africa the reserve blew us away.

The name Masai Mara comes from the famous Maasai tribe who inhabited the reserve. While, the mara comes from the Maasai word meaning “spotted,” an apt description of the landscape from above.

It is a part of the greater Serengeti-Mara ecosystem and shares a border with the famous Tanzanian national park the Serengeti. This entire region of the world is tremendous for wild game and is home to millions of large animals. In this guide, we’ll cover the basics to a safari in the reserve.

A Safari Guide to the Masai Mara National Reserve

Our Experience On Safari in Kenya’s Masai Mara

After finishing up a six-month-long drive from Cape Town to Kampala we could not have been more thrilled to have a safari in the Masai Mara. For once, we were going to sit back, take flights, and let the experts take us around an amazing slice of East Africa. Our expectations were very high; however, we were not let down. In all our time in Africa, we have never seen so many big cats. In one day we saw three separate lion pride and kills.

It is official – safaris have spoiled us. Things like silence, elephants, and starry nights have become commonplace and it will be hard to tire of these things. Every day we spent out in the game vehicles was enthralling.

In most camps we visit we make the decision to sit a game drive out in order to relax some, but in the Mara, we didn’t skip out on a single day in the bush. It is also the first park we have been to in Africa where we saw all of the “Big Five,” animals in one day.

To top it all off, some of our best photographs have come from the Mara. Sunsets in the Mara didn’t blow us away due to it being the rainy season. However, the light bouncing off the plains and the open areas with little room to hide makes for wonderful wildlife photography.

When is the Best Time To Visit the Masai Mara?

The best time to visit the Masai Mara is in the dry season, late June – October. During this period of time, the game viewing is at its best. The world-famous wildebeest migration arrives in July and hangs around until October.

The rainy season typically arrives in March and goes on to May. In full swing, the rainy season will shut some camps down as it is difficult to do game drives with some roads becoming impassable.

A wonderful time to book a safari in the Masai Mara is the shoulder seasons around Jan-Feb. Visitors will find lower prices and fewer crowds. The rainy season isn’t all bad. Many lodges remain open and offer green season rates which can be up to 50% of their high season rates.

Green season in the Mara also brings about the births of many young animals and fewer crowds. In my opinion it’s always best to visit in shoulder seasons; however, if your end goal is to see the migration expect to find crowds and have deep pockets.

Animals in the Masai Mara

The park is home to all of the “Big Five” animals. The park’s population of Rhino are under constant threat and have risen back to around 40 after being nearly wiped out in the ’80s.

When it comes to cats the park is well known and most visitors will come across a pride of lions and cheetah. In nearly a week around the Masai Mara, we observed eight different lion prides, five cheetahs, and spotted our first serval and African wild cat.

Birdlife in the Masai Mara is abundant with 470 species calling the park home for at least part of the year. We spotted bateleur eagle, lilac breasted roller, ostrich, crowned crane, lappet faced vulture, pygmy falcon, and secretary birds. One of our favorites, the lilac breasted roller, is also the national bird of Kenya.

It is likely you’ve seen the Mara on the big screen in numerous nature documentaries, TV series, and even movies. BBC’s Big Cat Diaries followed several big cats around the Masai Mara. Of course, any film buff will be well familiar with Kenya and the Mara from the movie “Out of Africa.“

The Great Migration in the Maasai Mara

There are few natural events in the world that can compare to the spectacle that is The Great Migration. Between Tanzania and Kenya a massive herd of nearly 1,300,000 wildebeest, 500,000 Thomson gazelle, 200,000 zebra, 97,000 topi, and 18,000 elands migrate in search of fresh grass. These safari animals run in monstrous herds and move between the Serengeti and the Masai Mara producing an amazing sight.

The migration arrives in the Masai Mara around the beginning of July and around October. If you plan on going expect to pay sky high lodge prices and book well in advance.

The greatest wildlife show on earth draws a crowd. We visited the park in the green season. However, due to our changing environment, the rains arrived much later in the year and despite visiting in mid-April we witnessed the first of the rains.

The Masai Mara Landscape

The landscape of the Mara is largely open grasslands with seasonal rivers cutting through. Covering 1,510 square km or 583 square miles the park occupies a small section of the greater Serengeti-Mara ecosystem. At the southernmost border of the park lies Tanzania and the Serengeti National Park. The North, West, and Eastern are bordered by Maasai communities who live as pastoralists.

Set inside the Great Rift Valley, the park is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The western border of the park ends at the Esoit Escarpment which is the western side of the Great Rift Valley. Asides from the rolling grasslands you can also find forested river banks, acacia woodlands, swamps, and thickets.

The Masai Mara Tribe

The Maasai are the ancestral people of the Mara. History remembers them as fierce warriors and tough pastoralists. To this day many lodges around the Mara employ the local Maasai from the communities as their “askari” or security guards. Maasai are well known for their rich cultural heritage. Their deep ties to the wilds of Africa and living around the national parks of Kenya and Tanzania are intertwined with the safari industry.

You can find them living all around the Masai Mara reserve and many lodges arrange cultural visits and sell their crafts in camp. We found Masai working in all positions, including our guides, at the camps we stayed at in the Mara.

Masai Mara Lodges You’ll Love

Governors Camp Collection

• Location: Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
• Type: Tented Safari Camp
• Activities: Bush Walks, Game Drives, Birding, Hot Air Balloon Flight, Sundowners,
• Avg. Price: $1200 Per Night (Double Occupancy)

Nearly a century ago in an exceptional part of the Mara the governors of colonial Kenya had their exclusive camp along the banks of the Mara River. The spot was world-renowned for its exceptional game and beauty and was the camp Teddy Roosevelt used on his safaris.

That very spot is now home to Governor’s Camp, the first tented camp in the Masai Mara. Over the years the operation has expanded and it is the largest we have stayed in with nearly 37 tents.

Although, the charm is not lost as the camp feels spacious and the river forest acts as a natural barrier between guests’ tents. Many tents either face out to the Mara River or to the Masai Mara plains and the tranquility is not lost.

The tents themselves are all canvas and the sounds of the Mara spill right into the room. Grunts of hippos, roars of lions, and calls of hyenas are a nightly occurrence.

These animals also frequent the unfenced camp, and we even awoke one night to an elephant rubbing against our tent poles. This provides guests a real sense of being in the wild, but never too close to danger with the ever-present Maasai security on hand.

Modern amenities are not withheld in the tents, all the tents include WiFi, flush toilets, and hot showers. The beds are comfortable with hot water bottles waiting under the covers for those chilly nights. While the main bar has a large deck that extends out over the river with comfortable seating.

Game viewing around the lodge is exceptional and arguably some of the best in Africa. At the time of our visit, the camp was surrounded by literally thousands of zebra.

They covered the landscape in stripes of white and black. We found cheetahs, lions, and elephants daily. To our surprise, despite being in the middle of the Mara we saw a few other vehicles that were not from our camp.

Governors operates several camps within the Mara including Little Governor’s in the Mara Triangle, Il Moran, or their exclusive Private Camp. They also run Governor’s Hot Air Balloon safari, which is arguably the most magical thing you can do when in the on safari.

Cottars 1920s Camp

• Location: Masai Mara, Kenya
• Type: Tented Safari Camp
• Activities: Bush Walks, Game Drives, Birding, Fly Camp, Hot Air Balloon Flight, Night Game Drives, Sundowners, Visit Masai Village, Swimming Pool, Canvas Bush Bath
• Avg. Price: $2,000 – $2,500 Per Night (Double Occupancy)

At Cottar’s 1920s Camp guests are transported back in time to the essence of the original safari. Their guide on this journey is Calvin Cottar. The Cottar family has been guiding guests around Kenya since those early days. They are the “safari family,” and have guided a long list of celebrities, royalty, and aristocrats over a century of operating in Kenya.

Taking up the reigns of his family heritage Calvin and his wife built the Cottar’s 1920s Camp and formed the Olderikesi Conservancy. The 22,000-acre concession is exclusive to the camp and borders both the Serengeti and Masai Mara. Game drives around the conservancy also dip into both parks providing a real sense of adventure in pursuit of wild game.

Meanwhile, the camp is filled with authentic antiques, family photos, and artifacts from a century of safaris now used decoration for the main lounge and tents. Tents at the 1920s camp are a throwback to the former golden era of safari with all the adventure, romance, and atmosphere.

If there is one camp to live out the movie “Out of Africa” this is the one. The large white canvas tents roll up to reveal sweeping views down to the Serengeti and Masai Mara. The beds are four-poster and a working gramophone sits casually on an antique trunk. Bathrooms are ensuite and a woodfired hot water heater ensures guest always have a hot shower.

Experiences on offer here are unique and luxurious. Guests can partake in bush walks, game drive in the family’s 1940 Rolls Royce, bush dinners, spa services (every tent receives a complimentary 30-minute massage), and even a canvas tub bush bath. So make sure you have some nice outfits and a good pair of safari boots packed in your bag.

Trends in the safari business appear to ensure that guests do not go without modern amenities these days. As with the other camps, we stayed in the Mara WiFi was in the rooms. It was a nice change as lodges are moving the internet out of the main lounges to encourage socializing. Dinners at Cottars were wonderful with family style seating and alcoholic drinks included.

Cottar’s 1920s Camp has been featured in many editorials and it is widely considered one of the best safari camps in Africa. In conjunction with the stunning safari modern bush villa, the Cottars property is a clear winner around the Masai Mara.

Hemingway’s Ol Seki

• Location: Masai Mara, Kenya
• Type: Tented Safari Camp
• Activities: Bush Walks, Game Drives, Birding, Night Game Drives, Sundowners, Visit Masai Village,
• Avg. Price: $1,000 – $1,200 Per Night (Double Occupancy)

Located on the award-winning Naboisho Conservancy, Hemingway’s Ol Seki offers guests an amazing wildlife experience. The camp is intimate with ten tents perched on an escarpment. Tents are massive and modern with canvas all around including two massive family tents.

The bathrooms and luggage area are large and we always had hot water. We could have used a bit more interior decoration in the tent and found the “daybed” to be out of place and too large.

The main lounge was lovely and the perfect spot to have sundowners, read a book or socialize. It was decorated with leather couches, large quilted rugs, and plenty of coffee table books to enjoy an afternoon between game drives.

Ol Seki overlooks a manmade watering hole that was frequented by various antelope and hyenas at night. While the main deck sits on a large rocky outcrop that made for a fantastic spot to watch the sunset and have a romantic fireside dinner.

We loved the game drives in Naboisho and our two Maasai guides, Rafael and Patrick, were fantastic. Our guides came from the conservancies guiding school and they were very familiar with their own land.

Their passion for guiding and wildlife was evident and we found them to be our favorite guides in the Masai Mara. Sundowners, game drives, and morning coffee with them was a treat.

Ol Seki works as a great camp in conjunction with Hemingways Nairobi. They are well situated in a wonderful private conservancy and have all the amenities to ensure a comfortable safari.

Camping In The Masai Mara

It is possible to camp on your own in the Masai Mara. The Mara Conservancy offers three basic public campsites and eight private campsites. The public campsites operate on a first come first serve basis and take no reservations.

 While the private campsites are open to the public via reservation. All campsites require the hiring of two-night guards for 2,000 KSH each.

• Public Campsite Cost: $30 pp a night
• Private Campsite Cost: Inquire by writing to mara@maratriangle.org or call/WhatsApp +254 100202578

You can find our more info such as booking and GPS coordinates on the Mara Triangle website.

Masai Mara Park Fees

• Non-Resident staying inside the park: Adult – US$ 70 // Children  – US$ 40
• Non-Resident staying outside the park: Adult – US$ 80 // Children  -US$ 45
• For Kenyan Citizens: Adult – Ksh. 1000 // Children and Students – Ksh. 300
• East African Residents: Adult – Ksh 1,200 // Children and Students– Ksh 500

How To Get To The Masai Mara?

Bush Flight To The Maasai Mara

The best way to get to the Mara is without a doubt a bush flight. Bush flights are carried out by light aircraft that can land on the various dirt runways around the Mara. Governor’s Aviation dropped us off right at camp with the airstrip only 10 minutes away from the Governor’s Camp.

We used Fly-SAX (now rebranded to EastAfrican) to get us around most of Kenya. They are a great regional provider offering flights all over Kenya with a number of international destinations. We booked our flight from Entebbe, Uganda to Nairobi via SAX and had a good experience.

SAX is also the only company with the commercial rights to land on Cottar’s private airstrip. The only other option to arrive at Cottars is via a private plane or lengthy drive. We booked our flights around Kenya with SAX who flew us into Mombasa and Diani Beach, or Ukunda Airport.

Drive To The Masai Mara

We took one drive to the Mara and it was a long day. From Nairobi, the Masai Mara is about six hours away. Once we hit the dirt roads past the town of Narok we were reminded why we sold our truck in Uganda. It is a long road that is badly corrugated. They are in the process of putting in a new road, but time will tell if they Kenyan government finishes the job.

There are a number of budget places and campsites to stay outside of the park and around Narok so you don’t have to pay an arm, leg, and another arm for a safari in the Mara.

Our Entire Africa Travel Story • What We Never Shared

Malaria Around The Masai Mara

People take malaria a little too seriously in regards to travel in Africa. The Masai Mara is dry and at an elevation. Towards the end of the rainy season, mosquitos may be present; however, malaria is very uncommon.

The best defense for malaria is prevention. That means wearing insect repellant and long sleeves at night when the mosquitos carrying malaria bite.

Essential Items For A Safari in the Masai Mara

Packing the right safari clothes is always a good idea, but it’s never essential because you can wear whatever you want. We also go in-depth on the best women’s safari clothes!

30 km south of Mombasa is a 10-kilometer stretch of beautiful white sand offering fantastic Kenya coast accommodation. The town boasts an incredible coral reef, primates, Kinondo culture, a wide range of accommodations, and the warm Indian Ocean. We took to the Kenyan coast to uncover the best Diani Beach hotels.

The Best Diani Beach Hotels and Resorts

Kinondo Kwetu

Kinondo Kwetu is a barefoot boutique paradise and one of the best Diani Beach resorts. Here you’ll find healthy food, a gym, a large lap pool, a quiet beach, and an inviting tropical island atmosphere. Our time spent at Kinondo Kwetu was strictly no shoes (our own rules).

The beach lodge is situated away from the busy strip of hotels on Diani Beach; instead, it is just south of Kinondo Beach.

The Bohemian lodge has received various accolades for its environmental sustainability and community development work. That scores big for us as we’re always searching to reduce our footprint through eco-friendly products and businesses.

Kinondu Kwetu is driven by a young Swedish family who moved to Kenya to set up their lodge over a decade ago. Since then, it has grown from a handful of cottages to a secret escape for families and honeymooners on the Kenyan coast.

Kinondu Kwetu has nine different types of rooms ranging from ocean-facing rooms to family cottages. There are two pools – one for adults and one pool large enough to hold scuba diving lessons. The property is littered with sunbeds, unique places to eat, and even a sauna for those crazy Scandinavians. They also have their own stable for guests that want to go horseback riding on the beach, many kayaks, and even a slack rope to practice balance.

We enjoyed relaxing next to the ocean during the day, getting active in the gym or with the activities, and enjoying an evening in one of their two lounges with jazz music always on the radio. The lounges and the rooms are beautifully decorated and draw on themes from around the Kenyan coast. This new lodge has an old soul.

All meals are included in the rate at Kinondo Kwetu and are usually seafood-inspired. Most meals focus on healthy ingredients, with some dishes made from scratch! We found the staff here exceptionally well trained, attentive, and care about the comfort and happiness of their guests.

At more than $500 a night, Kinondo Kwetu is one of the more expensive properties. Still, you get a personalized feel, excellent staff, privacy, and true relaxation near busy Diani Beach with the price.

This family-run property is the perfect place for families or couples to complete their safari in Kenya. We left with the property being one of our favorites in all of Africa, don’t be surprised if this one makes our top lodges list in the future.

The Sands at Nomad

The Sands at Nomad is located on one of the main stretches of Diani Beach amongst much of the local life in the area. This resort is a medium-sized property good for getting to know people but retains some intimacy in their 26 acres of forest. The Sands at Nomad has 18 rooms ranging from basic double rooms to beachfront cottages.

They all feature air-conditioning, WiFi, and a fridge which may not seem like much to some people; however, once you land on the Kenyan coast, you may change your mind as the humidity is intense!

You’ll find the white sand beach or the pool; both are perfect for hot days. We found the staff, amenities, and location of The Sands at Nomad to be ideal, but the real award goes to their restaurant. Nomad Restaurant is right on the resort property, steps away from all rooms.

Nomad Restaurant has idyllic beachfront views, complete with a bar, ice cream parlor, pizza oven, and even a sushi station. The restaurant is open to both resort goers and the public. We had the half board option at The Sands, which I would highly recommend. Each night, half-board guests are invited to order any three courses off the menu. We tried a mix of Japanese cuisine, seafood, and soups, and all of them were delicious.

Rates at The Sands start at $150 per night and go up from there based on room choice and food packages. The Sands is an excellent place to hang out with kids and a group of friends looking for a great time on Diani Beach.

Swahili Beach

If there is a mega-resort on Diani Beach – Swahili Beach is it. At Swahili Beach, bigger is better, and that’s exactly how you feel when you first walk through the large Arabic-style doors.

Located right off the main road in Diani Beach, Swahili Beach was built with Arabic and Swahili architecture in mind. The decor and furnishings at Swahili Beach make you instantly feel as if you were in a Sultan’s palace centuries ago.

Swahili Beach features more than 60 rooms, each comfortable and spacious. All rooms have their own balcony overlooking the large pool, but I will get to that later. Swahili Beach mainly operates on a half-board basis, with most meals being served at a buffet-style restaurant – Majilis.

For those vacationers that want a bit more of a personalized dining experience, Swahili Beach has you covered with their four other restaurants and bars. There is even a main coffee shop where complimentary high tea is served with a collection of assorted cakes and fruits.

So what is there to do at this Diani Beach Resort? There is a monstrous pool that probably beats out all the pools in Zanzibar for the largest I have ever seen. The pool cascades down a hill to the beachfront, where guests can then walk out to the Indian Ocean and take in the views.

Swahili Beach is another property on Diani Beach where the staff was friendly and helpful despite catering to such large groups of tourists. I’ve also been told that Swahili Beach hosts large pool parties and other events, so we found it the perfect spot for a “friendscation.” Starting at $120 per night, they have great rates, specifically during special holidays when you can get packaged deals.

The Sands at Chale Island

What if I told you that just off the Kenyan Coast, just a 600m walk away, is an island filled with magnificent birdlife, monkeys, and warm swimming in crystal water? Well, that’s exactly what you get at The Sands at Chale Island. The sister property to The Sands at Nomad this place is one of the best Diani Beach resorts there is! Chale Island operates completely independently from its mainland counterpart. Half of the island is a resort, and the other half is a sacred, protected forest.

The beaches here aren’t littered with beach touts or hunks of seaweed. Instead, they are idyllic for swimming in a warm Indian Ocean paradise and are often frequented by sea turtles. Besides lounging on the beautiful beaches here, guests can walk around the entire island at low tide, kayak, and wander among the mangroves.

Another great thing to do here is sit in your private beach chairs and listen to the island birds while watching the cheeky colobus monkeys eat berries in front of you.

A few different styles of rooms range from your standard room to overwater suites to one honeymoon banda. We were upgraded to the honeymoon banda, the most private suite on the island. To say the honeymoon suite is enormous is an understatement.

With a private lounging area overlooking the ocean and an upstairs lounge, this place was bigger than our old New York apartment. The honeymoon suite was my favorite part of the stay because you could watch both sunrise and sunset from the comfort of the room.

There are a few pools for the folks that prefer to stay away from the sand and a bar with live entertainment every night. We also enjoyed that there was somewhat working WiFi throughout the island (seeing as we like to keep up with Instagram).

It is important to remember that Chale Island is indeed an island, and there is no electricity for the greater portion of the day. At night the property runs on generators.

Chale Island has its own time zone, set one hour ahead of the real Kenyan time. Personally, we hated the change in time zones as everything was one hour earlier than expected, including breakfast, lunch, tea time, dinner, and checkout time. As long as you come prepared for a bit of no electricity, your own time zone, and a beach paradise, you will love Chale Island.

General Travel Advice for Diani Beach

• Check out our beach packing list for ideas on what to pack!
• Mombasa is 30 km north of Diani Beach. The airport is small but services flights from around Kenya and internationally. We flew to Diani Beach from Nairobi JKIA with Fly540, which Fly SAX operates, and had a pleasant experience with them. A cab ride from Mombasa to Diani Beach should cost no more than 4000 Kenyan Shillings, but always agree on a price beforehand and put your bargaining cap on.
• If you want to go on safari in Kenya, I can recommend Nairobi National Park for the city dwellers, and of course the famous Masai Mara for a classic safari experience.
• There is a ferry between Mombasa and Diani Beach. Time your ferry arrival time accordingly. We arrived on Friday and waited almost two hours to board the ferry with our car. Foot passengers should experience no delay. If you decide to call an Uber to Diani Beach, be sure to take note of the ferry. The longer you wait to board, the higher your Uber fare goes.
• Ukunda Airport is a small airport near Diani Beach. Only 3 km away from the main resorts.
• Local matatas, tuk-tuks, and taxi cabs are available for those that wish to explore. The most expensive will be a taxi cab. Always negotiate a price as the cabbies start insanely high, especially for Mzungus.
• Avoid walking along the beach at night.
• Those looking for a wild party should head to Forty Thieves Beach Bar & Bistro for a fun night out.
• There is a Diani Beach Shopping Centre for any items you may have left at home. There is also a well-stocked Nakumatt Grocery Store for those who wish to cook their own food.
• Be sure to check out the Kaya Kinondo Sacred Forest near Kinondo Kwetu. The forest is culturally significant and still protected by the local Kinondo tribe.
• If you like Diani Beach, head to the island of Zanzibar or cross the border into Tanzania and get to Ushongo Beach! 

When we first decided we would travel around Africa, we knew that a trip to Kenya could not be missed. After selling our beloved Land Cruiser in Uganda we hopped on a flight over to see what Kenya had to offer.

From the plains of the Masai Mara to buzzing Nairobi to laid back Swahili beach vibes these are the Kenya travel tips to keep in the back of your head.

Out Top Kenya Travel Tips

Nairobi isn’t that bad

Nairobi, or “Nairobbery” has a strong reputation for being unsafe. Before we landed in Africa years ago, I heard terrifying stories about visitors in Nairobi. We arrived with very few expectations of the city but were pleasantly surprised with Nairobi.

Not only did we feel safe, but the city is packed with hip restaurants, rooftop bars, trendy coffeehouses, and beautiful hotels. Not only that but Nairobi National Park is the only national park in the world that lies next to a capital city with other animal refugees and orphanages scattered about the city.

As always – stay out of bad neighborhoods, don’t walk alone at night, and use universal common sense, and Nairobi might even become your favorite African city.

Kenya is the Africa you think of

Endless plains of grass, ancient tribal warriors, and teeming with wildlife. It’s the Africa of your dreams. If you have been considering traveling to Africa for the first time, Kenya may be the place for you. Portrayed in countless movies, books, and nature documentaries Kenya is well known.

Education is King in Kenya

Speaking of African movies, have you checked out the movie “The First Grader?” It’s the tale of Kimani Maruge, an 81-year-old man who decides to go to primary school for the first time when the Kenyan government made it free.

The story is true, and Maruge is considered somewhat of a hero throughout the country. The motivation to learn in Kenya is extraordinary, with literacy rates around 85%.

The Economy is Booming

While Kenya is still a developing country, it’s important to note that it still has the most powerful economy in East Africa. It only took a few days in the country’s capital for us to realize the nation is unlike most of its African counterparts.

There is a growing middle class, infrastructure, and a strong business sector. We happened to visit right before the 2017 elections, and it seemed most Kenyans were hopeful about the prospect of their country. That being said, the wealth divide in Kenya was also one of the most apparent we have seen in Africa. Only rivaled that of South Africa.

Safari Time!

One of my top Kenya travel tips is to go on a safari there! Make sure to pack your bag with your safari clothes because if you’re headed to Kenya, you should partake in at least one safari.

The name safari comes from the Swahili meaning “journey” or “trip.” It is close to the city at Nairobi National Park, the famous Masai Mara, Amboseli, or Tsavo. Game spotting here is top-notch, and the Kenyan Wildlife Service takes pride in their country’s natural landscapes and wildlife.

Kenya is your African movie

Out of Africa was the best picture winner of 1988 and possibly one of Robert Redford’s best films. The movie was based on Karen Blixen’s account of her time in colonial Kenya. What other big-time movies are set in Kenya? How about “I Dreamed of Africa,” based on Kuki Gallman’s novel. Or “The Constant Gardener” telling the tale of pharmaceutical corruption…yup, that was Kenya too!

Obviously, not all movies about Africa are set in Kenya, but many of those dramatized Hollywood flicks are. If you want to live out an African movie, then grab your gramophone and head to Kenya.

Money Matters

The Kenyan Shillings is the currency in Kenya and is currently valued at 100:1 to the US Dollar. USD newer than 2006 is widely accepted at many establishments around the country. We also have no problem using our credit card in Nairobi. I wouldn’t call Kenya a cheap destination – far from it, actually.

National park and conservancy fees can range anywhere from $40-$120 per day for foreigners. If you plan on staying in a lodge, hotel, or eating, you can also expect to pay a high price for those luxuries. The “cheap” hotel we regularly use in Nairobi costs around $100 USD a night.

Boda Boda’s, Piki-Piki’s, and Matatu’s

No, those aren’t the names of some far-off African-inspired cocktail. They are some of the main modes of transport in Kenya. Boda Bodas are bicycles for short distances, while Piki-piki’s are motorcycle taxis. These operate in smaller towns and cities and are a popular way to get around.

Watch the Boda Boda’s and piki pikis weave in and out of traffic and get passengers to destinations in half the time a car can. Matatus are the cheapest and most efficient way to get around for locals. Matatus or minibusses are hard to miss with blaring music, custom paint jobs, and neon lights.

None of these modes of transport is the safest option by any means, but they are fun and flexible and allow you to get more into local Kenyan life.

Those Coastal Vibes

Kenya isn’t just good for safaris, but the Kenyan Coast also boasts white sand beaches and is the perfect place to come for peace and quiet on the Indian Ocean. Malindi, Watamu, Diani Beach, and Lamu all have that Swahili vibe that can also be found on the Tanzanian coast.

Some of the best food in Kenya can be found on the coast, and some of the most interesting architecture and culture.

Jambo!

Like Tanzania, the main language in Kenya is Swahili, and learning some basic phrases will definitely enhance your experience with the locals. If you venture into the country’s west, you will undoubtedly come across the Masai people.

The Maasai all speak Maa, but most understand Swahili as well. However, lodges, tourist attractions, and everyday people will likely speak English in Nairobi. It’s common for many Kenyans to speak a mix of Swahili and English when conversing.

Essential Items For a Kenyan Safari

Packing the right safari clothes is always a good idea, but it’s never essential because you can wear whatever you want. We also go in-depth on the best women’s safari clothes!

Drifting above the plains, forests, and rivers of the Masai Mara feels like a dream. There is no turbulence and no loud motor – just you and your temporary balloon drifting over wild elephants, lions, and giraffes.

hot air balloon safari in the Masai mara

All balloon safaris with Governors take off at Little Governors Camp. On arrival to the camp, passengers can enjoy tea and coffee while the balloon is prepared for the flight. Guests are given a briefing and told what to expect on their balloon safari. Each massive hot air balloon can carry 16 guests at a time. The baskets are compartmentalized with four people to a compartment and everyone has plenty of space to take in the views.

Takeoff feels surreal because it feels like literally nothing at all. One minute you’re on the ground and the next you’re drifting above the treetops in the middle of your balloon safari and you don’t even realize it. Unlike helicopters, planes, or an elevator the lift is so gradual it still feels like you’re standing on the earth’s surface while in the balloon. Have you ever flown like a bird in your dreams? Well, that’s what a balloon safari feels like – it’s the closest thing to a flying dream we have ever experienced.

Governor’s Balloon Safaris are considered the best outfit to take a balloon safari with due to its professionalism, experience, and quality. Our pilot, Mike, has been flying balloons for nearly three decades and in conditions much more difficult than the Masai Mara.

In fact, the plains of the Mara with relatively predictable winds are an ideal location to fly a hot air balloon. There are no power lines, no mountains, and no private property you can land on. Allowing guests to rest easy on the flight and get lost in the moment.

A balloon safari leaves you absolutely speechless. Mike was an expert as we floated over the Mara River. He danced over treetops and dipped into clearings, before climbing to dizzying heights that provided all-encompassing views of the great Masai Mara. During all of this, you watch antelope, lions, elephants, and buffalo wake up for another day in the Mara.

The average flight lasts about one hour; however, it can be more or less depending on the weather conditions. We got lucky and it was fifteen minutes longer than expected – an expected and rare treat. On landing, be prepared for the balloon to land on its side.

Seats are specially designed and with a great pilot you feel a few bumps before coming to a comfortable stop on your back. After landing the Governors support team quickly scoops guests up and takes them for a bush breakfast in the middle of the Masai Mara. Champagne and mimosas accompany a hot and delicious breakfast while guests celebrate a stunning morning and safe balloon safari.

Preparation For a Hot Air Balloon Safari over the Masai Mara

Balloon safaris should be booked in advance due to high demand and limited space available. We’d suggest booking with Governor’s Balloon Safaris, the top Balloon Safari operator in the Mara. The night before your balloon safari confirm with your camp what time you will need to depart and get to bed early. On the morning of your flight, you are required to be at the launch site by 6:00 a.m. or earlier depending on sunrise time.

Ideal flying conditions are early in the morning for seeing the African plains from high up is utterly romantic and dreamlike. We stayed at Governors Camp in the Masai Mara, where the staff delivered coffee to us at 4:45 for a much-needed wake-up before we took off to the launch site for their balloon safari.

Be sure you know what to wear on safari because mornings can be especially cold in the early morning, while quickly getting hot once the sun rises.

Hot Air Balloon Safari in the Masai Mara Cost

Starting at $420 a person, the cost of a balloon safari is not for budget travelers. Costs involved in maintaining, purchasing, employing crew, and running support vehicles in the middle of the bush are not exactly cheap.

If you’re already staying at Governor’s Camp like we did be sure to check out a number of their packages that include flights into the Mara, several nights at Governor’s Camp with food, and the balloon safari.

A balloon safari was definitely a highlight of not only our time in the Masai Mara but of all of our time in East Africa! If you want to experience Africa from a different point of view then I would recommend a balloon safari at least once in your lifetime – you won’t forget it!

Book A Safari in the Masai mara

Traditionally if you wanted to book a safari you’d have to go to a travel agent and have them book your safari for you. They made suggestions for camps and lodges and then presented you with a large bill. Most of the industry still operates in this fashion.

However, Timbuktu is a new platform that allows you to select the lodges you’d like and see the pricing per day that way you can select the best itinerary for yourself. They will then contact the lodges and help you by booking your safari. With experts on staff, they can also provide suggestions and arrange the little details much like a travel agent.

Essential Items For A Safari

Packing the right safari clothes is always a good idea, but it’s never essential because you can wear whatever you want. We also go in-depth on the best women’s safari clothes!

I won’t lie and say it’s the most beautiful park or the best place to go on safari. However, Nairobi National Park is the only major National park located in a city center. It’s amazing that within one hour you can go from a hip coffee shop to photographing African Buffalo, a feared member of the “Big Five” animals.

In some ways, Nairobi National Park is a microcosm of Africa. Nairobi is hurtling towards the modern world while the population continues to explode, the wealth divide deepens, land degradation is at an all time high, and surrounded by the chaos is the African wildlife.

A Nairobi National Park Safari Guide

Our Weekend in Nairobi National Park

When doing research about our first trip to Kenya and Nairobi we came across Ololo Lodge in the Nairobi National Park. In search of the perfect escape from Nairobi we knew that hiding away in a skyscraper hotel is okay for a day or two, but we were in search of something that would connect us to the roots of Nairobi. After all, Nairobi and Safari used to go hand and hand, but the buzzing metropolis of today makes that seem a distant memory.

For us, a safari in Nairobi is not your standard destination. It’s not something worth traveling to specifically to Nairobi for. Instead it acts as a wonderful precursor, afterward to a safari in Kenya, or weekend escape from the city center. In fact, the proximity to Nairobi’s Wilson Airport makes it the perfect stopover in between bush flights to the Masai Mara or Amboseli.

After spending a few weeks hopping around Kenya we made an end in Nairobi National Park before flying off to our next safari destination. The highlight of our time in the park was enjoying our lodge and spotting black rhino in the park.

Checking into Ololo Lodge

Situated on the quiet Southern border to the park is Ololo Lodge. The safari lodge is owned and operated by an Australian farming family. Their roots are evident in the lodge with fresh produce coming from their garden and safari traditions that are not missed.

Ololo Lodge has the feel of a bed breakfast with a lovely garden and earthy tones in the interiors that one would not expect to find in Africa.

The lodge’s location makes it secluded from the main part of the capital city. Rebuilt from a traditional farmhouse the property is filled with charm and character. Their rooms range from lovely stable rooms, two suites in the main lodge, and individual safari style bandas. 

We spent our time between game drives relaxing on our deck reading a book or walking around the gardens overlooking the river. Those eager to explore the park can just take the short walk across a wire bridge directly into Nairobi National Park.

Our room was the tower room. It was light, airy, comfortable, and featured two decks. One of which is accessible via a spiral staircase and overlooks the whole park. Mornings in Africa should be prized and we took good care to savor them from the comfort of our private deck as the day broke. After daybreak guests can enjoy breakfast on the grounds while birdlife darts by from the park. A highlight at breakfast were their farm fresh mushrooms, grown on site, and homemade muesli.

Ololo Lodge can cater to outside guest looking to enjoy their garden restaurant. However, it is based on availability at the lodge so outside guests should call in advance to make reservations. It makes for the perfect Nairobi weekend escape for residents and business travelers. 

The lodge main lounge is a large airy room with a central fireplace and is the ideal place to relax on chilly evenings around Nairobi. WiFi can be found throughout the property and we had a good signal on our mobile phone so business travelers can rest assured knowing they can stay connected here. 

We loved the lodges approach to sustainability. Disposable plastic water bottles are commonplace in hotel rooms and even lodges; here rooms receive a fresh supply of water every day in a ceramic pitcher. It’s steps like this that may be small, but can make massive strides towards waste reduction. This is an addition to their large gardens helping supply the restaurant help lessen the lodges environmental impact.

Overall, we found Ololo Lodge to be an amazing place to stay when on safari in Kenya. Their proximity to Nairobi Wilson, only a thirty minute driving through the park, make them a clear winner for those looking to escape the west and immerse themselves in wild Africa while still close to the city.

Nairobi National Park History

Nairobi National Park was the very first park in Kenya. Opened in 1946, the park is the oldest national park in Africa. History in the park expands much past 1946 to the earliest days of Nairobi when settlers from England first arrived and pushed the animals to the South and East of the city.

By 1932 the animals had nearly vanished from the plains of the park. Alarmed by the vanishing wildlife Mervyn Cowie began campaigning for the formation of a protected park. Finally, it became official and Mervyn was named the director of the parks service.

Nairobi National Park Geography

The park is 28,963 acres large. By most accounts, this is small in comparison to many of Africa’s national parks. The park has a fence on its North, West, and Eastern boundaries. The Southern border is the Mbagathi River.

The park is largely dry, but shares a similar climate with Nairobi. Weather here is dry and hot from January to March. April usually is the onset of the rainy season that lasts until June. During the rainy season weather can be similar to spring with cool evenings and mornings and periodic rain showers. From June onwards the rains become less common and the weather cools off. Many refer to this climate as the perpetual spring.

Nairobi National Park Safari Wildlife

Nairobi National Park is likely the best place to find rhino in Africa. While the Kenyan Wildlife Services will not directly release the Rhino population consensus it is used as a haven for the besieged animal and contains the largest population of them in Kenya. We saw a ton of Black Rhino with just our first day in the park! If you miss the Black Rhino in the larger parks of Kenya it’s worth a Nairobi safari to see this fleeting animal in the wild.

Other regulars in the park include lion, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, and buffalo. In all, Nairobi National Park has roughly 100 mammals. It’s worth nothing that the park is absent of the African elephant. Birdlife in the park, as in many places throughout Africa is wonderful with nearly 400 endemic and migratory birds that pass through the park’s boundaries.

Nairobi National Park Entrance Fees

Nairobi National Park is open all year round. While, the national park fees are high for foreigners they are the cheapest out of all the Kenyan National Parks. The park fees between citizen and foreigners are exorbitant at almost 1o times more expensive.

• Citizen: Adult – 430 KSH per day / Children – 215 KSH per day
• Resident: Adult – 1030 KSH per day / Children – 515 KSH per day
• Non-resident: Adult – $43 USD per day /Children – $22 USD per day

Nairobi National Park Tour

There are a number of ways to visit Nairobi National Park. We chose to go with one of the most luxurious and stay at Ololo Lodge, but there are more affordable options. Visitors can hire a local safari operator for a Nairobi National Park tour. This means going on safari with either a private vehicle or in a shared safari vehicle.

A private vehicle is more expensive, but due to the prevalence of cheap safari vans (or “vanderbeest,” as the locals say), there are deals to be had. A Nairobi safari with one of these vans goes for roughly $110 USD for the vehicle, driver, and fees. That price does not include individual guest park entrance fees.

If you choose to go with one of the more traditional safari operators offering tours in a game viewer in the park expect to pay about $60 USD per person for a half day safari. This does not include the park entrance fees. You can book your tour in the park here and they’ll pick you up from your hotel!

There is also the ability to take a shuttle bus offered by KWS on Sundays at 2:00 p.m. The park services drive guest around in a big bus for a 2 1/2 hour tour. It’s worth noting that weekends in the park can get very busy with locals in vans and their personal vehicles so we recommend paying a little more as a foreigner since park fees are already high.

Book a Safari in Kenya

Traditionally if you wanted to book a safari you’d have to go to a travel agent and have them book your safari for you. They made suggestions for camps and lodges then presented you with a large bill. Most of the industry still operates in this fashion.

However, Timbuktu is a new platform that allows you to select the lodges you’d like and see the pricing per day that way you can select the best itinerary for yourself. They will then contact the lodges and help you through booking your safari. With experts on staff, they can also provide suggestions and arrange the little details much like a travel agent.

Essential Items For A Safari in Nairobi National Park

Packing the right safari clothes is always a good idea, but it’s never essential because you can wear whatever you want. We also go in-depth on the best women’s safari clothes!

We entered Kenya with a rush and excitement visiting busy Nairobi for the first time. Nairobi is not a city for weary travelers, but the historical neighborhood of Karen is a residential enclave with ties to the famous Karen Blixen. So when we found Hemingways Nairobi online and knew it would be the perfect place to recuperate after the long drive from South Africa to Uganda.

Hemingway’s Nairobi

The rooms at Hemingways Nairobi we’re the perfect place to throw on the do not disturb sign and order room service! We found ourselves ordering breakfast and dinner in our room while overlooking the Ngong Hills. With lovely gardens and a spacious balcony we took in the atmosphere from our room. While, modern amenities like a trunk with a motorized pop up flat-screen  TV and high-speed wifi kept us comfortable. The bathroom featured his and her sinks, a walk-in closet, rainfall shower, and modern bathtub.

There is always tea and coffee in rooms on hand; however, if you don’t feel like doing it yourself each room comes with a butler. The Hemingways butlers are there to make sure each guest is completely comfortable with their stay. Ours was quick to deliver us all our meals, take orders, and bring us fresh tea and coffee.

The main lobby and garden at Hemingways Nairobi are like an oasis for bustling Nairobi. On the weekend the gardens take on a relaxed cafe atmosphere with locals coming to sip mimosas and have brunch in the morning sun. We found ourselves sunbathing by the pool and ordering drinks from the bar upstairs.

Hemingways Nairobi made for the perfect start or stop to a safari in Kenya! The Hemingways Collection also has Ol Seki, in the Naboisho Conservancy bordering the Masai Mara National Reserve. You can read more about our experience at Ol Seki here!

Great Day Trips from Hemingways Nairobi in Karen

The suburb named after Karen Blixen is the setting of the famous book and movie Out of Africa. We loved our time in Karen watching the sunrise over the Ngong hills. With all of Nairobi not far from the relaxed suburb we weren’t worried about getting too bored.

Karen Blixen Museum

This is the house where Karen Blixen lived while setting up and operating her coffee farm. Yes, you can close your eyes and just envision those Out of Africa shots here!

Kazuri Beads

Find handmade beads and jewelry at Kazuri Beads! Kazuri beads is an established business that employs disadvantaged Kenyans! They make some amazing products.

The Giraffe Center

You’ve seen the photos of people feeding real live giraffes. The Giraffe Center is about a 10-minute drive from Hemingways Nairobi and has been rescuing orphaned giraffes since the 70’s. The center serves as a learning point for young Kenyan school children and also releases the orphaned giraffes back into the wild. Foreigners are required to pay 1000 Kenyan Shillings to feed and kiss African giraffes!

The Hub

“The Hub” is a beautiful outdoor shopping complex in Karen where you can get clothes, food, coffee, and dinner. It is especially lively on weekends when there is usually an event happening in the large courtyard.

For Your Information

• A taxi from the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport to Karen will cost you 3500 KSH. However, Uber is incredibly popular in Nairobi and usually yields cheaper rates.
• Hemingways Nairobi is one of the most luxurious properties in Nairobi and the prices reflect that. Room rates start at $500/night with breakfast (in room and at the restaurant) included.
• The Brasserie restaurant is connected to Hemingways Nairobi and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We tried all three meals here and found each one utterly delicious. Make sure to make reservations beforehand, especially on weekends.
• For a safari experience right in the city check out Nairobi National Park!
• A Kenyan visa for US citizens costs $50. If you are planning to visit Rwanda or Uganda (or both!) then check out the multiple entry East Africa visa for $100. East Africa visas must be applied for online at least three days in advance and paid for at your port of arrival in USD.
• Nairobi usually gets a bad rap for being unsafe; however, we felt safe in the capital city. Always make sure of your surroundings, don’t venture into unknown neighborhoods, and don’t walk around at night.

Book A Safari in Kenya

Traditionally if you wanted to book a safari you’d have to go to a travel agent and have them book your safari for you. They made suggestions for camps and lodges then presented you with a large bill. Most of the industry still operates in this fashion.

However, Timbuktu is a new platform that allows you to select the lodges you’d like and see the pricing per day that way you can select the best itinerary for yourself. They will then contact the lodges and help you through booking your safari. With experts on staff, they can also provide suggestions and arrange the little details much like a travel agent.

Check Out Some Lodges in Kenya

Kinondo Kwetu

We didn’t know much about the coast of Kenya before we got there. We landed in Mombasa after an epic safari in the Masai Mara and made our way to Diani Beach. Our first stop was Kinondo Kwetu, a small boutique barefoot beach lodge run by a young Swedish couple. The Bohemian lodge is great for both couples and families as there is plenty to do and plenty of places to just relax on this property.

Kinondo Kwetu has not one, but two pools – one for adults and one pool large enough to hold scuba diving lessons. The property has sunbeds, a sauna, and various hideaways used for meals. There’s also a stable onsite to go horseback riding along the beach. As well as kayaks, a slackline, a yoga studio, and a fitness center to stay active. It topped our list as one of the best Diani Beach hotels.

Ololo Safari Lodge

We arrived at Ololo Lodge not knowing what to expect. The location of the quaint country lodge is on the Southern border of Nairobi National Park. The lodge is owned and operated by a lovely Australian couple who were crazy enough to give lodge management a stab.

They have taken everything they know from their two backgrounds – farming and furniture design – to build Ololo Lodge. The lodge used to be a traditional farmhouse that was restored into comfortable stable rooms, Safari tents, and even a tower suite that all compliment the old countryside theme.

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